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The following is a step-by-step procedure for starting up a freshly plastered pool. It is understood by the pool industry that the first thirty days of a pool is the most critical. Following these directions will help to assure that the plaster has received the attention that it needs.

NOTE: Remember to read and follow all chemical manufacturer's directions and warnings

A. TEST THE SOURCE OF WATER

Before adding any water to the pool, make sure you know the chemistry of the water. There are four items that should be checked:

• pH minimum 7.2; maximum 7.8
• Alkalinity minimum 60: maximum 180
• Water hardness minimum 150; maximum 600
• T. D. S. (total dissolved solids) minimum 300; maximum 2300

If the alkalinity and water hardness do not meet the minimum requirements, you may have to add bicarbonate of soda or calcium chloride to bring them to the minimum. This should be done after the pool is filled, and introduced as a liquid form by dissolving them in water and lifting the larger particles out of the solution, (See item G-: adding chemicals).

It is recommended that all chemistry readings be written down for future reference.

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B. FILLING THE POOL

After the pool has been plastered, the crew should leave a hose in the pool to fill it with water. This hose should have a soft cloth tied on the end of it. The purpose of the soft cloth is to diffuse the water so that it does not whip, it is also to protect the pool surface from being marred by the end of the hose and to catch what little debris may be in the water system. Do not add anything but fresh water. Make sure that the fill line is not connected to a water softener.

• Fill the pool as soon as possible. The more hoses the better. Make sure soft cloths protect the ends.
• Do not let the hoses whip or flail around on the pool.
• Put all the hoses in the deep end.
• Do not let the hoses rest on the plaster, particularly across the length or width of the pool. They will leave a mark.
• It is okay to leave the soft cloth protected end of the hose resting on the bottom of the pool as long as it remains in the pool of water that is forming.
• Do not add anything to the balanced pool water until it has finished filling.
• Do not stop the water until the pool is completely filled. This is usually to the middle of the skimmer opening.
• If it appears as if the pool is going to finish while you are not around, turn down the water to a slower rate.
• If you turn off the water while filling the pool, a "bathtub ring" will be left at the level where the water was shut off
• If you splash water, spill, wash, or cause anything to fall into the fresh water; it will mar the plaster
• Do not walk on the freshly plastered surface.

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C. TEST THE WATER AGAIN

You may find that the water chemistry is substantially different after filling the pool than when you first tested it RECORD AND ADJUST ACCORDINGLY.

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D. STARTING THE EQUIPMENT

When the pool has been filled: The next step is to get the filter system operating so that the water and plaster can be treated. Start with a clean filter.

• Make sure that the circuit breakers are on and the time clock is set for 24 hours.
• Prime the pump with water and start the pump. There will be air in the plumbing. Forcing water into the pipes with a hose will help force the air through the system.
• Record the pressure reading from the gauge on the top of the filter. Ensure this is the reading with a clean filter. When the filter pressure has risen to 5 to 7 psi. it will require cleaning. ( the filter is easier to clean if cleaned at less than a 10 psi. pressure rise )
• If there is a main drain valve, open it all the way. (skimmer control valve if present)
• Do not turn on the heater.
• Do not turn on any waterfalls or fountains that are not necessary.
• Do not swim in the pool until after the start-up procedure is completed

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E. ADDING STAIN PREVENTATIVES AND WATER CLARIFIERS.

These chemicals are extremely important - they prevent stains from occurring.

• Follow manufacturers' directions.
• Dilute with water before pouring into the pool (if required).
• Sprinkle the solution around the pool; do not pour directly into one spot.
• Brush pool immediately to mix the solution.

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F. BRUSHING THE POOL. DO NOT VACUUM THE POOL. IT WILL LEAVE MARKS

The more you brush the pool, the better it will appear

• You may notice, "plaster dust" on the bottom of the pool. This is normal and will go away with repeated brushing and filtering.
• The pool should be brushed twice a day minimum.
• The equipment should be on, with the main drain open.

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G. ADDING CHEMICALS

The goal of adding chemicals to the pool is to balance the chemistry as soon as possible and as close to ideal as possible.

All chemicals should be introduced slowly and spread throughout the pool.
DO NOT PUT THEM IN ONLY ONE SPOT.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

The ideal range being an alkalinity of 80-100, pH of 7.6, and a calcium hardness of 200-400.

• If alkalinity and ph are high (alkalinity over 120 and pH over 7.8), add muriatic acid to the pool to bring the chemistry down.
• If alkalinity and pH are low (alkalinity below 70 and pH below 7.2), then introduce bicarbonate of soda or soda ash, in a liquid form, to bring them up to ideal.
• If the calcium hardness level is below 200, then the addition of calcium chloride is needed to bring it up to ideal. The calcium chloride should be diluted in water and strained before adding to the pool.
• While adding any of these chemicals to the water, the pool equipment should be running and the pool should be brushed thoroughly.

Always add chemicals in small quantities.

• Make sure that the filter will run for at least four hours after adding chemicals to allow the chemicals to mix thoroughly.

After the water has been balanced, add cynuric acid, also known as conditioner.

Only after all of these steps have been taken you should add chlorine.

• The chlorine should be introduced slowly and spread throughout the pool.

Enjoy your newly plastered pool

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D.E. Filters should be backwashed when the pressure gauge reading on the filter tank rises 5 to 7 higher than the pressure gauge reading after the filter has been thoroughly cleaned.

Example: "Clean filter" pressure reading of 12# = Backwash at "Dirty filter" pressure reading of 17# to 19#

Note 1: Each pool or spa filter system will have a different "Clean filter" reading, due to valve settings and plumbing. Mark the filter’s pressure gauge for "Clean filter" and "Dirty filter" pressure readings. The area between the marks you put on the pressure gauge is your "Operating Range".

Note 2: If the filter pressure gauge reading does not return to the original "Clean filter" mark after backwashing, the filter may need manual cleaning. Follow the filter manufacturers instructions to clean it yourself or call for service.

Backwashing Instructions:
Inspect the equipment, controls, switches, and the surrounding area for safety hazards.
If there are safety concerns, do not proceed! Contact appropriate repair service.

1. Turn off the filter pump. Then. Wait until there is no pressure on the gauge.
2. Turn the backwash valve to "Backwash".
3. Turn the pump on. Let the pump run until the water coming out of the drain is clear.
4. Turn the pump off. Then. Wait until there is no pressure on the gauge.
5. Turn the backwash valve to "Filter".
6. Turn the pump on. Bleed any air from the filter tank thru the air relief valve on the top of the filter, until a steady stream of water comes out.
7. Add one - 1 pound coffee can of diatomaceous earth, into the skimmer, for every 5 square feet of filter area, while the pump is on. (See manufacturer's instructions)

Note: A 1 pound coffee can holds approximately 1 pound of earth.

• 72 sq. ft. = 15 # of earth
• 60 sq. ft. = 12 # of earth
• 48 sq. ft. = 10 # of earth
• 36 sq. ft. = 8 # of earth

Warning: Add the correct amount of earth each and every time the filters are backwashed. If the filter is allowed to operate for any length of time ( more than a few minutes) without earth, the filter grids will clog up and require the filter to be taken apart and manually cleaned (acid washed).

Always follow the equipment manufacturer's safety instructions.

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CHECK THE AREA AROUND THE POOL/SPA AND EQUIPMENT, MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SAFETY HAZARDS.

MAKE SURE THE HEATER IS IN THE "OFF" POSITION.

Sand filters should be backwashed when the pressure gauge reading on the filter tank rises 5# to 7# higher than the pressure gauge reading after the filter has been thoroughly cleaned.

Note 1: Each pool or spa filter system will have a different "Clean filter" reading, due to valve settings and plumbing. Mark the filter’s pressure gauge for "Clean filter" and "Dirty filter" pressure readings. The area between the marks you put on the pressure gauge is your "Operating Range".

Note 2: If the filter pressure gauge reading does not return to the original "Clean filter" mark after backwashing, the filter may need manual cleaning. Follow the filter manufacturer's instructions to clean it yourself or call for service.

Backwashing Instructions:
Inspect the equipment, controls, switches, and the surrounding area for safety hazards.
If there are safety concerns, do not proceed! Contact appropriate repair service.

1. Turn off the filter pump. Then. Wait until there is no pressure on the gauge.
2. Turn the backwash valve to "Backwash".
3. Turn the pump on. Let the pump run until the water coming out of the drain is clear.
4. Turn the pump off. Then. Wait until there is no pressure on the gauge.
5. Turn the backwash valve to "Filter".
6. Turn the pump on. Bleed any air from the filter tank thru the air relief valve on the top of the filter, until a steady stream of water comes out.

Always follow the equipment manufacturer's safety instructions.

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CHECK THE AREA AROUND THE POOL/SPA AND EQUIPMENT, MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SAFETY HAZARDS.

MAKE SURE THE HEATER IS IN THE "OFF" POSITION.

All control and equipment switches must be turned off.

Do not turn on the pool light while the pool is empty. It is a water cooled device. Property damage and personal injury could result if the light is turned on when not submerged.

1. Fill the pool with a garden hose in the deep end of the pool. Do not use the fill line built into the pool as it will leave a streak down the center of the pool. Fill the pool until the water level is at the center of the tiles.
2. Adjust the valves at the equipment, if any are present, to the settings that are normal for your pool.
3. Once the pool is full. Prime (fill) the pump strainer pot with water. Close the lid, turn on the pump and run the pump until the water is flowing thru the pump. Usually one minute.
   • If, after one minute, the water is not flowing thru the pump turn off the pump and prime it again.
   • Once water is flowing thru the pump, bleed the air out of the filter thru the air relief valve located on top of the filter until water comes out, then close the air bleeder.
   • If you have an earth type filter add the manufacturer's recommended amounts of earth (usually 1ea. 1 lb. coffee can of earth per 5 sq. ft. of filter area) into the skimmer. 36 sq. ft. = 7 cans. If you have a cartridge or rapid sand type filter, no additives are needed. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Add chlorine, muriatic acid, conditioner or stabilizer, as needed. Follow the manufacturer's instructions that come on the product, as each brand of chemical is slightly different.
5. Use your test kit. Test the water every day for the first week. Add needed chemicals per your test and the manufacturer’s instructions.

After a few days to a week of adding small amounts of recommended chemicals, per the chemical manufacturer's instructions, the pool water should be balanced. (If not, seek competent advice and instruction)

After the pool water chemical levels are balanced, testing the pool water and adding chemicals every few days, should be sufficient for normal residential use.

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CHECK THE AREA AROUND THE POOL/ INGROUND SPA AND EQUIPMENT, MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SAFETY HAZARDS.

MAKE SURE THE HEATER IS IN THE "OFF" POSITION.

1. ALL SWITCHES MUST BE OFF.
2. Fill the spa with regular tap water to the center of the skimmer.
3. Open the pump pot lid, pour in a quart of water to prime the pump, close the lid, turn the PUMP ON. Look through the pump lid and check to see if the water is flowing. If the water is not flowing within 30 seconds, repeat this procedure. NOTE: If you have a spa that is above the equipment level be sure to check that any shut off valves are reopened before starting the system.
4. Once the pump is primed. Open the air relief on the filter to bleed off any air in the tank.
5. General chemical guidelines. Test the water every day and add small quantities of the needed chemicals per the manufacturer’s instructions. It is always recommended that chemicals be added after everyone is out of the spa, no one is to use the spa until the test readings are at a safe level. Refer to your chemical manufacturers’ instruction information. Printed on the chemical container.

General Hints

GAS HEATER: Specific directions for pilot lighting and operation are on a plate inside the heater.

SPA LIGHT: NEVER TURN ON THE LIGHT UNLESS THE SPA IS FULL. It is water cooled and will be destroyed if it is not under water.

G. F. C. I. Is a VERY sensitive circuit breaker, it takes less power than that in a watch battery to cause it to trip. If you ever turn the light ON and nothing happens, check the G.F.C.I. If it is tripped and can be reset, it is O.K. If it will not reset, or it frequently trips, CALL US OR YOUR ELECTRICIAN.